Attract Butterflies

Butterfly Attractions

Most people are not aware of the number of Butterflies they already have fluttering around in their yards. With over 700 species in the US you are bound to have a few lingering around somewhere. The trick is to get them out into your garden where they can be appreciated.  Sadly that 700 number is getting smaller each year due to the destruction of the insects habitat and the over use of pesticides.

Now that we have assumed that there are butterflies visiting your yard we need to figure out a way to increase their numbers. This can be done by simply providing them with the things they naturally need.  To successfully attract numerous butterflies you will need to grow plants that are both sweet in nectar but also a place for laying eggs. Butterflies prefer native plants and will often ignore hybrids. This is why a wildflower garden attracts butterflies more so than a formal one.

While butterflies do prefer the untidy look of a wildflower garden they can be lured into any style of garden with the right type of flowering plants. Plants that are highly fragrant and rich in nectar are always butterfly favorites, but keep in mind that just because a plant is fragrant does not mean it is ripe with nectar. A rose for instance is one of the sweetest scents in the garden but the flowers don’t produce any nectar. The best flowers for attracting butterflies are ones with simple blooms and bright, vivid colors.

One thing not often mentioned about attracting butterflies is a term called “puddling”. This involves providing a shallow pool of water or birdbath in order to help create and even more inviting atmosphere. Butterflies frequent shallow pools of water in order to extract minerals from the water. To create a puddling area simply put some dirt or sand in the basin you plan to use and allow some of the dirt to be above the water to give the butterflies a spot to rest.  To really spoil your fluttering neighbors put out plates or bowls of rotting fruit like apples, grapes or over ripened bananas — they love these sweet snacks.

Advice:
> Place the garden in full sun
> Select as many native varieties as you can find
> Use flowers that have large blooms and bright colors
> Do not use pesticides in the garden or on the lawn
> Use plants with different heights
> Create a puddling area

Annuals for Butterfly Gardens:
> Lantana
> Geranium
> Impatiens – (Not New Guineas)
> Verbena
> Heliotrope
> Pentas
>Zinnas
> Salvia
>Ageratum

Perennials for Butterfly Gardens:
> Buddleia (Butterfly Bush )
> Yarrow
> Shasta Daisy
> Phlox
> Rudbeckia ( Black Eyed Susans)
> Monarda ( Bee Balm )
> Echinacea ( Purple Coneflower )
> Coreopsis

 

Filed under: Uncategorized on February 11th, 2010 | 1 Comment »

So Many Coneflowers – So Little Space

 Recently I’ve been looking through all the new 2010 spring perennial catalogs and have noticed that they are all full of new hybrid echinaceas or what we used to call purple coneflowers.  I guess we are going to have to abandon the “purple” phrase as these new coneflowers  are available in  orange, pink, red, creamy whites and yellows. New hybrids like ‘Orange Meadowbrite’, Pink Double Delight and ‘Harvest Moon’ as well as others are just a few examples of the vibrant new flower colorsavailable.  I am in the process of growing many of these new varieties, and talking to the breeders about what to expect from each plant.   I have been told that it is important to grow many of the new shades of orange in full britght sunshine  as the vibrant colors will become washed out in even light shade.  As my plants mature over the summer I will update this post with my reviews of each variety as well as any new selections being offered by the breeders.

For many years I have selected new introductions to grow- but this year has been very difficult due to the numerous great new plants be introduced. This year is shaping up to be one of the most exciting years in our trials in a long time – so many great plants – so little space.
  
I have a strong feeling that I am not going to be disappointed with any of the new Echinacea plants and will wind up only wanting more…. whatever the results I will let you know but be warned these new Coneflowers could become addictive.

For one of the best selections of the newest Coneflowers or Echinacea plants take a look at www.coneflowers.net catalog. They have the best collection of new varieties on the net.

Filed under: Uncategorized on January 28th, 2010 | No Comments »

The Right Way to Plant Roses

buy Beautiful Rose BushesRoses will grow in most all areas of the US. The American Rose Society names 48 classifications for roses, but most of the roses grown in the US can by and large be said to fall into one of the following types: hybrid tea, miniature, floribunda, grandiflora, climber, polyantha, shrub and English or old garden roses.

 

The hybrid tea was developed by crossing a tea rose and a hybrid perpetual, and has become the most popular rose bush in America. Hybrid Tea Roses produce large blooms on long stems and are favored for exhibition and cut flowers.

The Floribunda rose was developed from a cross between a hybrid tea and a polyantha. These roses sport more flowers but the blooms are smaller and are born on numerous clusters. Floribundas are hardier and easier to grow than grandiflora roses and hybrid teas.

The grandiflora rose was developed from a cross between a hybrid tea and a floribunda. These plants are similar in size to the hybrid tea but commonly have more but somewhat smaller blossoms..

Shrub Rose is a term commonly used to broadly categorize roses not previously named. Some of the hardiest of all roses can be found in this group. With its beauty, fragrance and history, the shrub rose can be a satisfactory component of the landscape. The shrub rose class includes the English Roses developed by David Austin often refereed to as Old Garden Roses or English Roses.

Selecting Rose Bushes

Most all Roses are sold through mail-order nurseries, local Garden Centers and nursery outlets.. More Often Than Not mail-order nurseries handle bare-root, dormant roses but that trend is quickly changing and many now offer potted plants. Local nurseries usually handle potted roses but often do not have the newest varieties available through mail order.

Many experienced rose growers prefer the bare-root, dormant plant from a reputable nursery but new gardeners are much more comfortable with potted plants. Potted roses are available to the gardener all the way through summer but for the best results roses should be planted in very early spring before the summer heat begins.. Be careful when purchasing packaged roses from retail outlets as these stores are bad to let the plants dry out and deteriorate on the shelf.

Site Selection

Site selection is important. Select an area that gets full sun and close air circulation. If you are planting in an area that is exposed to high winds you will need to locate the rose in a manner that protects the rose from the steady wind. Plant the bushes so that they get a minimum of five to six hours of sunshine. When choosing a location, avoid places where the roses have to compete with tree or shrub roots for water and nutrients. Good drainage is also needed for proper growth and should be a factor in selecting your site.

When planting bareroot roses spring planting is favorite over fall. The best planting time is six to seven weeks before the last hard spring frost.

Condition rose beds or planting before to receiving the rose bushes. If the plants appear dry, soak them in a bucket of luke-warm water overnight. Do not allow the plants to sit it the water for more than 12 hours. If planting in a bed that has been properly prepared, dig the hole so that the root system is accommodated easily, usually about 18 inches in diameter and 12 inches in depth. If the soil has not been prepared in advance, dig the hole at least twice as large and amend with organic materials such as well rotted manure or compost.

Do not permit the plants to dry out. Keep the roots in a bucket of water while your are preparing the soil and digging the hole. Before you plant the rose prune any damaged or broken roots with a sharp pair of garden clippers. Excessively long roots may be shortened, but leave 8 to 10 inches of healthy root if possible. Place the plant in the hole so that the bud union is at or slightly below ground level. Do not pack the soil around the roots. Firm with your hands or let water from a hose settle in the soil. It is important to water deeply at this time, be careful not to create puddles as this tends to separate the soil components… water in the plants slowly and let the water seep into the ground before adding more water.

The rose bush was probably top pruned by machine, with no consideration for correct pruning, prune the canes after planting. Your cuts should be made at a 30 to 45 degree angle, with a sharp set of shears. cut 1/4 inch above a bud eye, leaving about 6 to 8 inches of the rose bush cane. Pruning will help keep the center of the plant open for improved air circulation and open it up to sunlight penetration.

Filed under: Uncategorized on January 24th, 2010 | 1 Comment »

Daylilies for Easy Color

 

Plant Daylilies for Easy Color

My first attempts at gardening with perennials where disastrous and educational. It seemed that nothing I planted would grow. I was new to gardening and didn’t realize that plants needed more than dirt and water to grow. I learned the hard way that some plants needed sun while others needed shade – some liked wet conditions while others required dry soils. These frustrating first attempts at gardening where tough lessons but necessary for me to learn.

As I began to gain more skills and knowledge of what perennials to use where I soon realized that of all the plants I grew daylilies Easy summer color(botanical name; Hemerocallis) seem to be the easiest and provide great color with minimal effort on my part. All that was necessary for heavy waves of blooms was that I plant them in a sunny location – even if I placed them in the shade they still grew, just with less flowering. Plants are not particular at all about soils and can survive the hottest days of summer without dragging out the water hose. I have yet to find an insect that bothers them and have never had any problems with disease. After 25 years of growing a wide assortment of perennials I am convinced that daylilies are by far the easiest and most reliable plants available to the home gardener.

My first daylilies where a bright red variety called ‘Chicago Apache’ that I combined with a wonderful tall white phlox called ‘David’.  The phlox has now been replaced three times but the red daylilies still live in the same spot I planted them in over 20 years ago. The only real maintenance I ever have to do (besides the dreaded weeding)  with my daylilies is to divide them every 2- 3 years, and this more of a pleasure than a chore as each time they are divided I am rewarded with “free” plants. Other than that all I really do is offer the plants a little boost in the spring with a top dressing of compost -  but even when I miss the adding compost the plants have no trouble at all  providing a wonderful parade of color all summer long.

I have added dozens of daylily varieties to my perennial gardens down through the years. In the beginning I purchased most of my plants in one gallon containers from my local nurseries and home improvement stores. But I quickly realized that the selections where often limited and consisted of the same varieties year after year. As I began to search out different varieties I soon discovered mail order nurseries…. I was then hooked. Mail order companies offer hundreds upon hundreds of different daylilies and are often the only source for new varieties.  I would thumb through stacks of catalogs for hours and hours trying to decide which plants I wanted to add to my garden. As much as I enjoyed the catalogs I now have a new addiction — the electronic catalog — the internet. I have been able to locate nearly any daylily I have ever wanted over the web and have ordered plants from all over the country.

I have grown close to one hundred different varieties of daylilies down through the years and have never been disappointed with any of them. I am often asked to name my favorites and am some what hesitant to do so, but when I am backed into a corner and have to give an answer here are the tops on my list:

  • Apricot Sparkles  – Everblooming dwarf with apricot flowers
  • Bela Lugosi – regarded as one of the best purple dallies available
  • Daring Deception – Creamy pink with a large dark purple eye
  • Chicago Apache -  One of the best reds in my opinion
  • Barbara Mitchell – Beautiful soft pink with ruffled edges
  • Rocket City – Huge orange blooms and one of the easiest daylilies I have ever seen
  • Stella de Oro – The worlds most popular daylily – golden yellow flowers in early summer then again in fall
  • Siloam Amazing Grace – Primrose yellow flowers that are heavily ruffled

If you would like to learn more about gardening with daylilies visit the American Hemerocallis Society.

Filed under: Uncategorized on January 18th, 2010 | No Comments »

Be Bold, Use Orange Perennials

orange-crocosmia

Many gardeners are intimidated by intense color of orange and shy away from this wonderful color. I have even heard some people comment that they would never use orange in their perennial borders and some going so far as to call it an ugly flower color. While do we agree that flower colors don’t come any hotter than orange, and that it’s best to use it judiciously;  if you are avoiding this bold color all together you are missing the most cheerful color nature has to offer. Fiery oranges bring warmth to a gardens color scheme and will light up dark areas of the garden with it’s strong radiance, not to mention that the brilliant colors will attract swarms of butterflies and humming birds.

 The key to using orange in the landscape is not to get carried away with it’s use but instead place it strategically into the garden so that it provides sudden highlights. As with all garden design bringing out the best of any color is accomplished by combining shades that both compliment and contrast each other. To bring out the best of both soft and bold oranges by mixing them with complementing shades of blue, add in some yellows and the color scheme will sizzle with excitement. Intense purples also combine well with orange and since they both contain red the effect of contrasting the two bright colors together is magnificent. If you are looking for a color that will moderate the brightness of orange use pale yellows and whites to calm the color down.

Using orange in the garden:

  • Unlike many softer colors, orange holds it’s own in bright sunshine
  • A little known fact is that orange enhances appetite and encourages social interaction it is the perfect color for planting near outdoor entertaining areas.
  • Orange mixes in perfectly with brick walls, copper accents, concrete statuary, birdbaths, and of course terra cotta pottery.
  • Use non flowering plants that also provide shades of orange such as pyracantha, nandina, as well as some roses that bear orange hips.

Splendid orange perennials:

Gorgeous orange flowering annuals and summer bulbs:

  • Marigolds
  • Calendula
  • Zinnias
  • Dahlias
  • Tiger Lillies
  • Nasturtiums
  • New Guinea Impatiens

Easy to grow orange and salmon roses:

Complimenting shades of blue and soft purple perennials:

Dark purple perennials  for contrasting:

  • Aconitium napellus
  • Geranium ‘New Hampshire Purple’
  • Hibiscus ‘Plum Crazy’
  • Siberian Iris ‘Caesar’s Brother’
  • Lamium ‘Purple Dragon’
  • Liatris ‘Kobold’
  • Monarda ‘Pardon My Purple’
  • Penstemon ‘Pinacolada Violet’
  • Phlox ‘Laura’
  • Salvia ‘Marcus’
  • Salvia ‘May Night’
  • Tradescantia ‘Concord Grape’
  • Veronica ‘Royal Candles’

The best white and pale yellow flowering perennials for calming down bright orange:

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Filed under: Uncategorized on January 4th, 2010 | No Comments »

About

Welcome to The Practiced Perennial Gardener.  It is our intention to provide garden enthusisast  with comprehensive instructions and advice  on growing  perennials and other plants.  This site will provide readers with more than just snippets of  generic information and quick tips. We will  supply in depth details on growing and caring for a wide range of perennials and other plants.  After all as with all things in life real success comes from knowledge.

Filed under: Uncategorized on December 17th, 2009 | No Comments »

Perennials for the Winter Garden

 

winter-gardenWhile is always advised to practice  garden tidiness and a thorough fall clearing of dead growth and debris, there are some interesting plants that can be left in place.  If you cut down all the perennials to ground level you are left with nothing but a patch of bare ground.

By leaving some of the plants standing you will add a brand new dimension to your garden… a unique tapestry of plant skeletons,  and seed heads to admire all winter long.  

I will admit winter plants are not as striking as the lush greens and vibrant colors of summer, the perennial winter garden  has a more haunting and subtle look  and should not be ignored by the gardener. Plant forms range from fountains of weathered leaves,  floating sead heads, and the plumes of ornamental grasses. . As the cold weather brings fronst and snow the skeletons will become even more striking as they become adorned with glistneing frost and pure white caps of snow.

Another good reason to leave some selected  perennials in the garden is to attract over-wintering birds. Many perennial seed heads provide our feathered friends with a source of nutrition during a season when food is scarce. There nothing more peaceful than watching sparrows, finches, sparrows and the titmouse dancing around in a snow covered winter garden.   Some of the best varieties to leave for the birds include:

  • Asters
  • Coreopsis
  • Liatris
  • Echinacea

Now that we have covered reason to have a winter garden lets explore design elements.

While the selection of perennials for winter  is limited there are some very nice ones that are evergreen and provide a touch of color:

 Hardscapes are a very important part  in the winter garden for providing both structure and focal points.  Rock walls, statues, bird baths, benches and trellises all become  dominant features of an otherwise stark landscape.  Keep winter in mind when you select  the placement of these elements in  into your garden .

Trees,  Evergreens and Shrubs will become the secondary structure of the winter garden.  The best deciduous trees for winter are dwarfs or low growing twiggy types such as Japanese Maple and Dogwoods. The bark of some trees such as Paperbark Birch and Maple look superb in a winter garden.  There’s a wide selections of evergreens to choose from, but again I would suggest the dwarf conifers and cypress as it’s  not a good idea to have large growing pines close to your house. Don’t go overboard with the evergreens just because they will provide greenery during the winter…. after all you will need some space for your flowering plants. 

So know that you know a little more about the advantages of adding winter interest to your garden try to implement these suggetions into your designs. The most beautiful gardens are ones that change with each season and are never bare.

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Filed under: Uncategorized on December 17th, 2009 | 1 Comment »

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